Відео

Shouldnt it have 295 kw stock?

Rwkw are a little high with a baby 1900 blower? 2600 blowers don’t make those numbers.

Do you need to cut and weld a new flange? Currently running twin hyper gate 45mm. They only make straight gate 50 & 40s will either fit that 45mm flange?

Non of these numbers mean much to me but i guess your dyno only gives you horsepower or watts but really engines make torque and horsepower is calculated

Great video! Recently new to owning a dyno, I have always done the ratio to wheel speed method. Converter slip never crossed my mind! This is now changing how I'm going to go about it! (Before people jump through my throat I use the rpm tracking so when analysing the dyno logs I can correlate it to the ecu datalog to make adjustments, but for future dyno sheets I will change that so there is a correct torque readout!)

The thing I appreciate the most about this response to a problem is that you have not defined it as conspiracy. Generally, stuff like this always stems from ignorance. I feel like this is a good response because you have recognised that it is ignorance (in general) with less people doing it on purpose to deceive.

Dyno In no particular order 1. Sales tool 2. Tuning tool 3. Measuring tool

Those numbers look funny. 3000 RPM at 100 km/hr..? My V6 (3.6L) ticks over at 1850 RPM @ 100 km/hr. Am I missing something here.

Great video 👍

When it comes to Dynos Americas different. I look at honda Type Rs FL5 being tuned with 280 kw at FW with 93 tune and the ones in AU 230KW at the wheels on 98 tune. Either it’s way too conservative tune with full bolt ons or it’s something else. 230-40 is crap when the Puerto Ricans are pushing 640+ HP at the wheels on stock internals. 🤔

Dynos were never meant to give real world power / torque numbers. They are a tuning tool - you can only compare before and after numbers on the same day to measure changes to the vehicle.

Can you please do a video on Compression ratio,s We see all these videos on exhaust systems & camshaft & cylinder head upgrades But no Compression quoted .

Great vid makes alot sence now after seeing a ross review vid a few days ago with an ls1 stato making in the mid to 300 kw range but 1100 nm souds like a good shop to stay away from

did you really start with "Let's have the conversation"? when "Let's torque about it" was right there?

It’s a lot easier if you think about power, torque and rotational speed in standard (SI) units. These are watts, nm and radians/second. Using these units, power = torque x rotational speed. So the dyno works by measuring torque at the wheel (or hub if hub dyno). It also knows the speed the dyno is rotating. Multiplying these together gives the power at the dyno. Now, to get engine torque, you have to divide the dyno power by the engine speed. The engine torque is not the same as dyno torque as the engine torque is multiplied by the transmission, diff and tyres. However, this engine torque number is not correct because there is drivetrain loss due to friction in the drivetrain.

Hello @mpwperformance

Great knowledge given here for free. Much respect.

Very informative and honest no bullshit about the facts 👏🏻

Thanks for sharing.

Also remember the torque numbers shown (if calculated correct) will be engine torque minus the driveline loss. Since they are being calculated from power at wheels and engine rpm. It isn't engine torque or torque at wheels.

Doesn't an induction clamp produce a pulse every two crankshaft rotations?

If you’re going much over 100nm per litre naturally aspirated you are probably measuring it wrong.

Hey man, do you boys work on 3.8 holdens at all? thanks

Correct me if I'm wrong but a dyno measures torque and horsepower is calculated based on torque at a certain rpm. The dyno doesn't measure horsepower and then calculate torque based off that.

I worked at a workshop where the dyno operator couldn’t even understand lambda 😂 He told the customer to change the gauge to a normal AFR reading before he’d be willing to tune it, now I can understand wanting a gauge that reads 14.7/1 as stoich because it’s what you’re comfortable with but that sent alarm bells off for me so given that experience it doesn’t surprise me this sort of thing happens and it wouldn’t surprise me if a lot of shops are doing this none the wiser and just thinking it’s not making much of a difference

Love your honestly Unfortunately a lot of other dyno operators are only interested in ripping people off $$$.

With high rpm you will make good Tourque if it’s a turbocharged straight six like a 2jz with 30 psi plus getting shoved into it Eg my dragster does a 1.14sec 60 ft that’s equivalent to 0-100kph in 1 sec and 3.5g That’s letting the trans brake go at 5500rpm and the thing revs to 9200rpm

Do you just use factory pushrods with these cams?

🙏

Well explained 👏

This actually makes a lot of sense since I had a few dyno runs and noticed my ssv with l98 make 470hp and 540nm does that sound legit cause now I’m worried I got stitched with dodgy tuners 😅swear it made more nm almost stovk with a baby cam then going to a vcm 883 😵‍💫 I like this guy he sounds like someone I’d be happy to take my car too 💯

Well explained , you’ll definitely upset all the dyno sheet owners and a few shops , track doesn’t lie

wow billet crank, Fast manifold, ported heads by Higgins, customised cam, full tunned try y headers and free flowing exhaust and free flowing cats and race fuel, engine revining to NA at 8,000 rpm, sure you can get around the 350Kw with about 600 nm of torque, its about what cam your using and crank and as they say a engine is just a air pump so the more efficient and better flowing that air pump is working the more power with the right fuel, your going to make big power compared to a stock ls1, Ls2 6lt and so on? People for get your not going to make power unless you spend a lot of money with hi end internal components and blue printing everything that moves in that engine? cheers 👌✌👍😎🦘 Also what's that old saying nothing beats big blocks right no substitute for cubic inches right? so you can have a ls platform but its stroked out to a 416 or 408 right?

The most important Dyno numbers is when its in SAE Specs number, meaning its based on controlled temperatures outside and relative humidity which should be 0%, and thats not going to happen, unless you can control the outside temp and humidity as well do that and then do a dyno, which will give you a correct hp figure, or in other words The most common are the SAE standards. The older J607 standard considers that the engine was run on a 60°F day with 0% humidity and a barometric pressure of 29.92 in-Hg or the newer SAE J1349 standard of 77°F (25°C) day with 0% humidity and a barometric pressure of 29.234 in-Hg (99 KPa). cheers 👌✌👍😎🦘🦘 Do that and you have the same dynos used by OEM engine boulders who present the engine hp figure for the various cars they make. Which costs millions of dollars to get and then maintained as well, also almost all tuners have a dyno to do tests and tune engines, but without knowing what the engine will do at various outside temps and weather conditions they will always tune it to be in a safe mode unless its a drag engine which in that case, a lot of the parameters are not used other than safe settings to shut of the engine to save it? 👍👍😎😎

More people need to hear/understand this!! Great video 👌🏻

Run your car, not your mouth fixes all the shit talkers 😂.

I agree! Makes 500hp, runs 12s at 113mph😂😂😂. Dyno is a tuning tool. Had a bloke say aww low numbers to my ls1 at 380rwhp but it run 11.69 116mph. His made 500hp and run 12.6s at 113mph 😂😂.

100% on the strip being the real guage of hp. I ask for drag times and mph from overseas high hp numbers and get smart comments about gear ratios etc on why they don't go

Interesting video. I think most people seem to only pay attention to power (RWKW / RWHP) still, ignoring torque figures. Im most intersted in torque myself. However, I try not to compare dyno sheets between shops, too many variables, and dyno results are too easily distorted as you speak about. The shop i use has a notoriously low reading dyno in comparison to other shops, so online everyone will tell you its weak sauce, but the strip showed it not to be the case :)

Very informative thank you mate good work

Great Video Stathi 👌👍

What about my LS1 With a Harrop HTV 2300 453 kw 993 nm dose that sound right built by Sam's Performance and yes with a Magnum F

Excellent vid Stathi

Queue the LS1 guy with 1000nm of torque in 3, 2, 1..........

Spot on. I know nothing about dynos but timeslips and knowing the weight of the vehicle and doing the math = most accurate figures.

This is all too common

Awesome Thank-you great video

Great story and so true

Gd work/video mate 👌, Yep they definitely run filthy filthy rich When you fit a O.T.R to them from idle to W.O.T and everywhere in between , Big thumbs up for your videos 👍

My old ls1 got 300rwkw with 690nm it pulled hard but after going in a cammed lsa fuck me totally different story